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1:29am (Eastern) July 5th, 2003
Frankfurt International Airport, terminal A21
Frankfurt, Germany
So, here I am in Europe for the first time. Everything up to now has been quite surreal. Now Im just tired as all hell. Theres a disturbing amount of English writing, everywhere. I had to ride on a bus for over two miles after getting off my plane just to get here.
Atlanta security tried to rape me; it was so tight. Frankfurt security involved two guys standing next to a gate watching us file through. How about that? The only accessories I have with me are my Zippo, watch and SODWIC. I feel naked without my wallet (replaced by a neck pouch), cell phone (CDMA phones are useless in Europe), and keys ( think about it). Ill survive though.
Getting here was surreal, as I said. Wednesday and Thursday night, my last hurrahs with my friends and family, were some of the strangest experiences of my life. Almost all of them were treating me like I was dying. It was like a strange mix of The 25th Hour and Its A Wonderful Life. More of 25th hour than the Jimmy Stewart classic. Sure, its the longest any of us has ever been away from one another but Im coming back! Ill miss Sam, Travis, Vivian and my family a lot though. Hopefully, if I get to post this, Ill also be getting to email them.
Vivian gave me a box to open when I got to Italy a few weeks ago. I think I know whats in it, especially since she told me to remember when she gave it to me.
Theres no net cafÈ in Montepulciano anymore. This will be a problem for my posting/emailing plans. Luckily, there will still be phone cards.
It still doesnt feel like Im in Europe. The Post Modern Airport styling, and the English version of CNN playing behind me, dont help much.
Im really tired, so this will be the end of this little entry. Flying for 9 hours trans-Atlantic is not something I would recommend doing on a daily basis.
1:44am (EST) July 6, 2003
The kitchen in my apartment
Montepulciano, Italy
Well, here I am. Just slept for quite awhile, so Im doing better now in at least that department. Traveling for over 24 hours straight is not something I recommend anyone do on even a semi-frequent basis. Its messed me up quite a bit. I nearly passed out during dinner last night. The food was good, but not astounding. Well see what they cook up next, though.
I have a five Euro phone card that they gave us, but, thanks to the nigh-unconsciousness problem, havent managed to call home yet. I will soon though, because Im already a bit homesick. Im not sure if its the apartment (Im now poor, basically, and not just because everything suddenly became more expensive), the people, or the lack of people. I am something of a homebody, in that while I love to travel, I like to take people with me. Here, I just have these people, although almost all of them seem pretty alright so far. I quite enjoyed walking home with Kalib (I think thats how he spells it, I remember seeing it written down and thinking it was strange) while he was drunk and getting drunker. Our apartment is on the ass-end of the town, but I dont really need to write that down, since Ill be bringing home a map, I guess. At least navigating is easy. Going to school? Walk up! Going home? Walk down!
Im listening to Abbey Road as I write this. Making me more melancholy about home. I listened to it with dad on the way to Hartsfield Friday.
Thinking about it, Im sure mom was right about at least one thing, not that I didnt joke about it myself. Getting a girlfriend probably wasnt a good idea before coming here. Now I long to be around her, which distracts me from the beautiful Tuscan countryside. And boy, is it beautiful
Speaking of Vivian, I opened the box finally. It had a little bottle in it with a slip of paper saying I miss you on one side, and I love you on the other. She was right, it means even more when I think of when she gave it to me. I love her and miss her, too.
Roommates are up now. I think Ill stop writing. The main thought on my mind is how much free travel Im going to be doing. Ive never been LESS aware of where the hell I was in my life, and that doesnt make me feel too comfortable about hopping a train to Venice, although thats the only place Ill probably try to go. I could spend my free time writing, which, honestly, doesnt seem like that bad of an idea either. Well see, wont we?
Hopefully today I can call home and Vivian.
1:09am (EST), July 7th, 2003
The kitchen in my apartment
Montepulciano, Italy
Just finished shaving, showering, and what not. Im liking this place much better now. I still havent managed to call home, but thats because the phone cards they gave us apparently arent working for much of anyone. Im going to try today, and if not, Ill buy a new, better card tonight. I would feel better if I knew how many minutes I was getting back home, but then again, I suppose I dont really need to gabber on much, do I?
Im not as homesick as I was though, since Travis, Kalib and I made the amazing discovery yesterday of a place with an internet connection. Id had a sinking feeling my stomach ever since Dr. Welborn, or The Colonel as we call him now, said the only net cafÈ here closed down. But we discovered a little photo store with @ signs and such displayed everywhere. The first 15 minutes cost 2 euros, and each fifteen minutes after that costs 1 euro, up until an hour a think, when the cost drops even more. 2 euros for fifteen minutes isnt too hot, but 3 for 30 is, so Im not complaining. I emailed Mom, Dad and Vivian, because all the time I really had. Just that brief, one-directional connection with home made me feel better. I dont think I was really home sick so much as sick at not having any way of contacting home easily.
Speaking of contacting home, I have to remember to send Samantha a post card soon like she wanted me to. Stamps seem to be relatively cheap to send overseas. I think, anyway. I would have emailed her and Travis and a few other people yesterday, but I was in quite a hurry. I did do a post on Jux though, so they can all see that and be amazed at how not dead I am.
That was just the morning, too. We toured the town a bit yesterday, but it seems that our personal ramblings had led us to discover most of interest already. We didnt know what it actually was then, of course, but we sure as hell saw it.
It turns out I ate a big hunk of veal for dinner the first night I was here at Albertos. It looked and tasted like chicken. Vivian is going to laugh at me at least the food is goodish. I discovered the joys of Italian pizza yesterday as well, for lunch at a little pizzeria thats on the outskirts of town (which just happens to be where they stuck us! Theres only one apartment further away from everything than us but at least were close to the supermarket and bus station.), and it was good. A basic cheese pizza here is called Margherita or something similar, pronounced like the drink. I played it safe and got one of those. It was cheap, thin, and huge. All the things the Coke here isnt. I picked up a 1.5 liter for 2 euros for the apartment, though, at a little shop downtown. Itll probably be even cheaper in the supermarket. Its enough to keep me from dying, and thats all I really need, I suppose.
After dinner last night a bunch of us went to Archies, a bar/club on the way back home. It was nice. The owner/bartenders name was Pierre, and he knew enough English to get by, and thought we were awesome just because we were American, he had license plates from various states on the wall, including Georgia, thought I looked like a rock star, and even discounted the drinks. I didnt have one, because nothing is ever going to make me much of a drinker. Even discounted the mixed drinks and draft beer everyone was getting were like 5 euros. It looks like my not drinking is going to let me save money. Ill go back with them, though, since it is a fun filled place.
Drinking is interesting though, because EVERYONE here is taking advantage of the lack of drinking age. Wine with dinner, beer with lunch, the strongest Manhattans in history after dinner its amazing. Of course, Im mostly hanging out with the Georgia Southern people, so what does that say about them? Probably just that Im boring as hell when it comes to drinking. But maybe itll let me actually afford gifts for everyone. Im paranoid about running out of money. The euro is worth slightly more than the dollar, but Im never quite sure of the exact exchange rate. Ill just keep trying to pay as little as possible. Theres always my credit card for backup, plus I can pray that mom will deposit my check for what little I worked after June 20th in my account while Im here. That should be about 200 dollars or so.
One way or another, my savings is going to be hit, HARD, by this trip.
Classes start today at 9:00. Roommates still arent up, but well probably all try to grab breakfast first. Lunch is the only meal not on the program. Speaking of them not being up, how the hell did I become the early riser of the group? A question for the ages.
I took a few pictures yesterday, more than I probably think I did, and Im going to keep doing that about the town as I go. I need to get one of Archies and such. Im in no real rush to get pictures of the town, since Ill be here awhile, I imagine. Im not sure if I have pictures of anyone in the program yet, other than my roommates backs.
This is a pretty rambling journal, isnt it? I think this is the closest thing to pure stream of consciousness Ive written in a long, long time. I hope it interests someone, at least. And theres so many funny things I just cant put in here, like Stevens battery charger being raped by the flight, Margaret scaring her roommates and just about everyone else by the fact that she has yet to shower (to anyones knowledge), doesnt shave her legs, and makes random comments out of the blue that no one understands. And she sings. At random.
Im scared now, because that actually sounds quite a bit like my girlfriend. I assure you, its quite different though. Scary different.
Since it has a power outlet, the kitchen is probably going to become my computing home base. And Im probably going to write here as every morning to pass the time until my roommates wake up and I can be entertained again. Theyre actually pretty cool, so I guess I lucked out. I still have no idea what Im doing with my weekends other than the trip to Rome and the one to Naples/Pompeii, though. I still dont think it would be that bad just to stay here, at least once, but Im really starting to like this town. It makes little towns in America look like metropolises. I mean, Canton is fucking HUGE compared to this place. The nearest swimming pool is about 40 minutes away and we have no idea where a movie theater is. Were only about an hour away from the sea, too.
Did I mention how fucked up it was being a touch typist trying to use an Italian keyboard yesterday? Yikes it was scary.
Anyway, Ill be going now. Hopefully I can call home again today. Email is going to be strictly an occasional thing, I do believe. Ciao, and Ill see you again.
Wow, our water heater just kicked on something fierce.
12:52am (EST) July 8, 2003
The kitchen in my apartment
Montepulciano, Italy
Kalib and Travis are going to the Vatican museum this morning, and theyre already out the door to the bus station. Ive been showering this early, but I think Ill type a bit in this journal while I wait for some hot water to build up. Theres so much to say about this trip, so many little things, that I know Im leaving out tons of stuff I should probably mention. I realize theres no way I could ever capture it all, though, so Im going to try to describe yesterday in the best way possible to explain why Travis and Steven were puking their guts out last night.
One quite interlude first though: I still havent called home. The phone cards they gave us are complete shit. I have a field trip to Montepulciano today, and it meets in the Piazza Grande. Some of the girls have gotten really good phone cards that work and have tons of minutes in the little tobaccanist shop off the plaza, so Ill check that out today. It also sells post cards, which Samantha wanted, so I might pick a few of those up. I have a mostly free day today where at least a small portion of us are going to be gone, so I might have free time to do all of this. Ill try to email home again if calling doesnt work. Im sure as hell not going to use my credit card to pay for long distance, or call collect, unless it gets to like July 20th or something and I still havent called.
Most of us are thinking about going to Venice this weekend. Nikki and Corienne (sp?) are looking into it today. End interlude.
Yesterday was the first day of classes. We got up bright and early here, bought some fruit, and hiked to the Fortressa, which is the most imposing school Ive ever seen. Classes, in general, went well. My print making professor, Fisher, says I dont need to worry about the fact that I cant draw, so that makes me feel about 10,000 times better. At lunch, after the first class, a group of us went and found what Ive been calling the Uber-Cheap Pizzeria. A cheese pizza and a coke cost 2.25. I assure you, thats pretty damn good. And the food was great as well. After lunch we hung out on this nifty playground/park near our school, and then went to our second class.
Once second classes had ended, almost all of us went down to the supermarket, which was open for the first time. The prices were much saner, especially on soft drinks, with one exception. A half-sized jar of peanut butter cost almost 5 euros. I wont be buying anymore of THAT on this trip.
Did I mention that all the guys but me had beers with lunch? Travis picked up another giant beer at the supermarket for like 1.05. This is when the drinking began. It wouldnt end until much, much later. There wasnt much of interest in the afternoon though, except that this is when I tried my phone card with no luck, and Kalib got a penis bug in his candy egg as a prize. That reminds me, I need to take a picture of the penis bug.
We had dinner at Ginos last night. It was good. Our table had a single bottle of wine in addition to water, not that I had any, while the table with Kalib, Andrea and Steven had three or so. Maybe four. Things were starting to get interesting. After dinner, we decided to try to hike to a local graveyard. We were going to meet up at Andreas apartment, which had just been dubbed Club 16, since shes in building 16. They were going to pick up a few more bottles of wine for the wait, while Travis and I went with Nikki and Corienne to get some gelato. It was good.
They were well on their way to smashed by the time I showed up at Club 16, and showed no signs of slowing down anytime soon. Im going to keep this short, and say that much wine was drunk, and we never got to the graveyard. Travis ended up proposing to Andrea, who has a boyfriend back home. She accepted, and started planning the wedding, which would take place later that night. And did. She also kissed Kalib at some point, although I didnt see that one. She gets crazy when shes drunk. I ended up in a desperate alliance with some of the sober girls, especially Mary, trying to get these guys home and calmed down before they got discovered and kicked out of the program. I eventually convinced a Kalib and Travis to leave Club 16 behind, which we had returned to, and come home with Mary and me. Im not sure what happened at Club 16 after that, but considering how loud they were being Im not sure what Ill find out at breakfast. It was a fun night, but I also felt responsible, as the only sober male, for at least trying to keep them in line enough so that they wouldnt be complained about. Us Americans are here to make a good impression, not to try to piss down drains (yes, this happened).
Ill be back later. Going to go shower and get ready for my day now. I hope this journal is worth the time its taking will anyone read it? J
10:09am (EST), July 8, 2003
The dining/TV room of my apartment
Montepulciano, Italy
Everyone is sort of taking a break right now. I walked all over this damn town this morning, saw the Etruscan museum and the shrine on the outskirts of town, and took pictures, so Im good for now. Had lunch at the El Cheapo Pizzeria again. It was good. I tried the four cheese. Anyway, after such a long morning of walking, most of us are taking a break. Travis is still sleeping off last night, more or less, which Ill get to in a minute. I just finished my drawing homework, or at least finished part of it, imported my photos that Ive taken so far today, and now Im writing this journal. Steven has hiked back up the hill to try out his phone cards and talk to the travel agency.
So, yeah, the Etruscan/Civil museum was neat. It was weird, though. My actual professor for the printmaking class is sick, so one of the older women in the class whos been to Italy many, many times and has experience in printmaking basically took over for him and led us around on this field trip. She took us to see an actual etching press in town, we watched books being hand-bound, and then, of course, the museum. At least shes nice, if a bit bossy for someone who has no actual, legal power over us. Alas.
Travis missed his fieldtrip. He was throwing up all night, and still wasnt feeling too hot this morning, and since hes going on the exact same field trip Thursday with Teeter, he let him sit it out today. Hes been in the room all day since. So, its basically a wasted day for him, but oh well. Considering he got married last night, I think hes doing pretty damn good. Both him and Andrea have sworn off alcohol for at least a little while longer.
The shrines and churches here are astounding. I can only imagine what theyre going to be like in Rome. When I was in the shrine at the bottom of the hill, the name escapes me right now, even someone like me was pressed into silence. It seemed wrong, to make any noise at all. We all talked in whispers. There was no real reason to, we just did. It was that beautiful and solemn.
I wonder how things are going in the real world and on the net. Im going to have so many webcomics to catch up on when I get back, it wont even be funny.
Speaking of the net, my parents emailed me back, but I havent checked it again yet. Ill go by there probably tomorrow, maybe during lunch break. I finally managed to call them today. I picked up a 10 euro international card; I have no idea how many minutes it is but I think its plenty. Anyway, it was nice to speak to them. Ill use the same card to call Viv later tonight. I might even call Samantha, but I doubt Id be able to reach her so that would be a wasted call. Ill make sure to email her in the second round of those, though. And soon, Ill purchase postcards! Maybe!
Dinner starts in three hours. Not much to do until then. I think Ill do some Advance Wars action. Even though I still have Harry Potter to read at some point. And, hey, now that I figured out that OTHER phone card, I think I know how to use the one I got already, so Im going to try that one again when I call Vivian, at least at first.
1:06am (EST), July 9, 2003
Dining room
Montepulciano, Italy
Shower, shave, blah, blah. Im already running out of non-worn shirts. Half of the ones I have worn are still clean, though, so Im going to try to refrain from doing the wash for a bit longer.
Nothing much of interest happened last night, other than dinner and a quick jaunt back to Archies. I got a bit depressed, though. I tried calling Vivian twice and got disconnected twice. Im going to have to email her today to explain why I didnt call back a third time Although the phone card starts with somewhere around 200 minutes, its like that Honest Abe card Travis (Rosenbaum) had once in the states, where a certain number of minutes is used up when you call regardless, and then once youre over those used up it starts subtracting them again. I started with 174 minutes calling Viv, and I was down to 150-something the second time I called so trying to call her probably cost me 40 minutes of talk time, if I have it figured out right how these things work. I can always get another phone card, but it is slightly expensive.
And she wrote me back too, so I really need to check my email. If we got to Venice straight from Rome tomorrow, which is our idea to try to save a rail pass day, I wont get a chance to. This journal will also cease to be updated for a few days, since I dont think Id bother to lug my laptop all the way to Venice.
Today, my entire day is taken up by classes of various sorts. My real classes in the morning to afternoon-ish, and then we have our survival Italian class at Il Sasso which is going to try to teach us how to order food. All of that is over at about 6:30, and dinner is at 7:30, and we have to get up early for a field trip to the Vatican tomorrow so yeah. Today is full.
Hmm I think were supposed to meet Mary and Rebecca for breakfast at 8:15.
It was nice talking to home again yesterday, and at least I got to say a few things to Vivian oh well.
Im eating a peanut butter sandwich and listening to Tool while I write this. Why does this feel strange?
Oh well, I dont think Im going to write a whole lot longer, since Im without much of anything to say. The days in which my roommates are sober are much less interesting to write about, I suppose. I might not be able to write tomorrow morning, since Ill be leaving early but well see. Well also see if I make it to Venice, wont we? Ciao.
12:32am (EST), July 10, 2003
Dining room
Montepulciano, Italy
About to leave for the Vatican. Except for tossing a stuffed animal around screaming numbers in Italian, emailing home again, and paying for our Venice trip (Were leaving Friday afternoon from Chuisi, and were staying like 2 blocks from the Grand Canal), which cost me 75 euros, yesterday was pretty slow. Ill write more later. Probably tonight or tomorrow morning.
12:57pm (EST), July 10, 2003
Dining room
Montepulciano, Italy
Travis just attempted to wash clothes in our washer for the first time. He spilled water all over the floor, had to spoon out extra soap with a spoon but its going now. We also just got back from the Vatican Museums. It was quite impressive. But I took a ton of pictures to make sure that everyone knew that was true. I have now been inside the Sistine Chapel, and seen the most famous of all statues of Augustus. Im good.
About to go to dinner and to Archies one last time. I have to remember to charge my batteries before I leave, though. Otherwise Ill probably need alkalines in Venice. Sorry, but I have to go dinner in half an hour!
2:36am (EST), July 11, 2003
Kitchen
Montepulciano, Italy
I washed four of my shirts, so Im good for a few more days. I also discovered where I had tucked away my Nirvana and Simpsons Sopranos shirt, so I have gained enough clothing to last a bit longer. Ill have to wash boxers and socks pretty soon after I get back from Venice, though. Our bus to the train station leaves in about two hours. Then we have a train ride for most of the day. Its only a little shorter than the plane here. At least the trains are comfortable. Honestly, the only part of this entire trip Im not looking forward to is the flight home from Frankfurt. The flight here was hell.
Listening to Evanescence. The video just came on MTV, and activated the urge. MTV is all we watch here, because its randomly in English. They actually play nothing but music videos. Its amazing. PAL TV has a very sucktastic refresh rate, just so you know. I mean, its bad. Real bad.
I wish I could go back to the Vatican Museums and wander around a bit longer the one hall filled with Roman statuary and busts I could stay in there for hours. We had to rush through it pretty fast. A lot of the stuff there was just plain awe-inspiring. Dr. Teeter complained that it was laid out like a 19th century museum, and it was, but that also lent a sort of artistic quality to the building itself.
Tuesday was the first, and last, time I called anyone. Wednesday was the last time I emailed anyone. Ill try calling my parents, at the very least, from Venice. A pay phone would work, but we should also have phones in the room, and when Ive traveled before those have worked with calling cards without any additional charges. I dont know if that will work here though, so Ill probably ask the desk. Calling Mom and Vivian from Venice would be the best.
Our bathroom was mostly dry now. Theres a hose from the washer that we have to put in the toilet to make sure it drains (Remember when I said I felt like I was suddenly poor?), and it has a shit ton of pressure, and apparently Travis didnt put it in there secure enough, which is why we had a magically flooded bathroom. That place was nasty. Its a good thing theyre changing our linen this weekend while were gone, because we used almost all of our towels (I nearly contributed those I brought from home, but havent used yet) to hold back the tide.
You know, I just realized I still havent sent anyone a letter or a post card back home. Our apartment randomly had envelopes, so I might write a letter soon. Samantha desperately wanted a post card though, so I think Ill pick up one with the piazza on it, or something. Well see.
Now then, my friends are making sure to bring booze with them to Venice. Most of them want to go to a dance club, and half the girls are going looking for a male strip club. Well see how this works out. As for me, I love you all, and I wont be writing to you again until Im back from Venice. Ciao.
4:41pm (EST), July 13, 2003
My bedroom
Montepulciano, Italy
Ive called home again, tried to call Vivian again, ate dinner and, oh yeah, got back from Venice, all within the last three hours. So lets talk about that, shall we?
The train to Venice was pretty bad. We crammed in there Friday afternoon, and the thing was PACKED. Eventually everyone but Corinne, Nikki, Erin, Mary and I found a seat in one of the compartments. We had to sit in the corridor, and Mary, who was my train-buddy, decided to go back and check on Travis and Rebecca. That was the last I saw of her until the very end of the ride. At Firenze, better known to us as Florence, a bunch of people got off and the four remaining members of our group got to grab an entire compartment to ourselves. It didnt last long, though, as more people got on. One of them was this strange, smelling, irritating yet awesome Italian man heading almost all the way to Venice with us. Why was he all of these things? Well, lets see. Erin tried talking to him, and found out he was deaf. This deaf man, over the course of the trip, proceeded to get calls on his cell phone ( why he had one? Text messages, I suppose), do sit ups, try to take a nap, smoke cigarettes, teach Erin how to shotgun a cigarette, complain about it being hot, tell us how much reefer he smokes at least he was interesting. Also, you never know how easy it is to talk about someone in front of them until you meet a deaf person who doesnt speak any English.
Venice was amazing. The second we stepped out of the train station, you knew you were in Venice. There was a grand church staring you in the face. A majestic fountain hurled water upwards. And there, right in front of you, is the Grand Canal. Its the first time something has ever completely met and exceeded my expectations. Ever. We walked from there to our hotel, which Im going to mention now in stream of consciousness.
First of all, it had water pressure. Fuck everything else that was wrong with it, it had water pressure. Now then, it also had four twin beds crammed into a room the size of one of the two bedrooms here in the apartment. The wall fixtures were breasts. With light bulbs in them. At least the TV got good reception. But, my God, WATER PRESSURE.
The room was advertised as having an air conditioner, but we never could get the thing to work. We thought it was just broken. Thanks to the language barrier, we didnt ask. So it got up to about 90 degrees in this room the first night and two days, and we were baking. The second night Kalib broke down and went and asked, and the guy at the desk gave us the remote that operated the thing. I cranked it all the way down to 18 degrees celcius, with the fan set on high. It got cold in that room. I have never been so happy to be freezing my ass off in my life. When Amy and Steven came back, they commented on it, but I didnt care. They found blankets. It was freezing. I was happy.
Im not going to bother to mention the sleeping-buddy pairings; Im just going to cover what I did in Venice. For two days straight, I just got lost. Anyone who knows me knows I hate getting lost, and I never, ever do it intentionally. But we really did just go tromping around Venice with only vague clues as to where we were, at best. We found random churches. We got to see a Gondola show. We found San Marco. We crossed more water than Jesus. It was great. Everything, even the garbage, was beautiful. I want to go back. I really missed Vivian when I was walking around. Everything they say about Venice being romantic is true. I need to go back. I picked up a few gifts, like a Venetian glass frog playing a violin, too. But mostly I just walked around for days straight, being amazed that, yes, I was in Venice.
Since Venezia is the end of the line, the train back was remarkably empty when we first got on it. Our group was separated at all. We got back just in time for dinner, which was just huge chunks of cheese, and totally not worth it, but we made it, just the same.
Did I ever mention how much I love Euros? Im really starting to have fun with this money. American dollars still make a whole hell of a lot more sense, but its neat to have like, six bucks in change for no real reason.
So now Im back in Montepulciano. Its weird; as soon as I hit these streets again, it felt like coming home. Ive already gotten used to this town. Tomorrow, besides classes, Im going to try to check my email again during lunch, and maybe write and mail some post cards. That might wait. Tuesday Im going to Florence. Ive been through there twice, but seeing a citys train station and seeing a city are two different things. This weekend is the big Rome trip, which Travis is trying to duck out of. I cant think of much else to say at the moment, other than I love Europe, but heres a list of things to do the second I get back in the states:
Go to a restaurant. Get free refills.
Take a shower with honest-to-goodness water pressure.
Crank every air conditioner to max.
Well, that, and see my family, Vivian, Sam, and everyone again. I miss them all. Four weeks left before I can see them. I almost feel like asking mom to bring SOMEONE with her to the airport, but I dont think that would fly to well. I cant wait to check my mail and see why Vivs said if shes really thinking about college, thats awesome. I need to check Jux again, too. #4 on that list is get used to having constant internet access again. Information is much harder to come by here in the boon docks of Italy.
Tuscany, I mean.
12:00pm (EST), July 14th, 2003
Dining room
Montepulciano, Italy
Not a whole lot going on today. Right now Im skipping the second of the survival Italian classes, along with a lot of other people, because the first one was completely pointless, and I had to do homework, go to the grocery store, and do laundry. Those are more important to me at the moment than saying My name is Graeme, and I am American. Steves here too.
So, today was classes. The biggest thing that happened was that Rebecca and Mary told me about another, better internet place that is an honest to goodness net cafÈ. I have my card with me and everything. I bought an hour for 3 euros, and I have about 40 minutes left. When I go back, Ill put 5 hours on it for 12 euros and probably use that for the rest of the trip. I got to email Vivian (who didnt email me back nearly as much as I was hoping, but my hopes were high), and my parents, plus make a Jux news post. Samantha didnt email me back at all. I growl at her. Grrr. I was doing all of this at lunch, so I didnt have as much time before classes started back as I wanted to send more mails, otherwise I would have sent her a follow-up bitching her out. When one of your best friend emails you from a foreign land, you reply!
Of course, Im just bitching because Im bored. She probably didnt even check it yet.
I asked Vivian about her physical mailing address. Im going to buy some post cards and send them out as soon as I get a chance. Probably Wednesday. Tomorrow is Florence, after all. Have to be at the bus station by 8:00, but well be back for dinner. Ciao.
3:37pm (EST), July 15th, 2003
Dining room
Montepulciano, Italy
I cant believe its already the 15th. And its still early in the program.
Okay, so I went to Florence today. All Ive really done is that, and eating dinner. Florence was cool. Let me see if I can describe our trip with enough accuracy to do it merit. 108 pictures, does that sound like a lot? The most of any single day yet. Good thing I have this laptop along.
This particular trip was all about ups and downs. At first, I was disappointed because on the way in on the bus, Florence looked completely modern. We passed an old palace or two, but for the most part it looked like the outskirts of New York or Atlanta. But as we walked, and passed another palace, and finally the giant dome (Ill Doomo, maybe? Something like that. I can pronounce but not spell it) thats so famous, I was convinced again. All of the streets started looking like what you expect Florence to look like, and here is this giant Renaissance building staring you in the face. It was huge, and beautiful, and EVERYWHERE. But then Trudy started leading us to all these art shops that looked either like things we had already seen in Montepulciano, or like Michaels back home. So I started get frustrated. We were skipping museums and actual stuff for this?
Then we got back on track with churches and such, and I was happy. I have now seen at least a recreation of David in the position he used to occupy, I have seen the tombs of Galileo, Macheavelli, and Dante (even though hes not in that one), and way too many other things to repeat. Florence is beautiful. I still like Venice much more, but Florence impressed me more than modern Rome, although I saw only a tiny fraction of that, admittedly. And it was on Teeter time. Maybe this weekend will change my mind on the imperial capital.
Whereas Venice has water everywhere, and huge churches on every corner, Florence isnt quite as grand? But, there are statues everywhere. I saw a few things older than any city in America, on street corners, being rubbed by tourists (and me). Original figures hundreds of years old. Everywhere. Theres more art in Florence than I could ever absorb. I dont even pretend to know art, but its hard to not be astounded when its right there. I want to see more, but much like the Vatican museums, its impossible to ever see it all.
The good news is that Ill get a chance to see more of it, at the very least, this summer. Bill (Professor Fisher) decided that our final field trip should be back to Firenze, and that we would most certainly have reservations to see David. So, the most famous statue in the world, I will soon get to see. Awesome, no?
The list of stuff I get to see in Rome this weekend is astounding. Even on Teeter time, I dont see how it could go badly. Trajans column, the Colesseum, The Forum, the Capitoline hill the Pantheon. That brings me to another weird point.
Ive gotten a little bit homesick again, but in a strange way. While I do still miss people back home (all of you get emails again tomorrow when I go to lunch, I assure you!), theres a new form of missing people taking over. Instead of just wishing I was around people in general, now I wish they were seeing what Im seeing. I wished Vivian was with me in Venice. I wished dad was with me today in Florence. This weekend well, mom has always wanted to see the Colesseum. Ill be back with everyone I know someday, I hope.
Its finally sinking in just where I am, just what Im seeing. Even in Venice it was still a bit unreal. I didnt feel like I was in Europe, or really seeing what I was seeing. Florence nailed it home. I really am where Ive always wanted to be. One huge area of pilgrimage, marked off. I may not get to see Milan or Pisa on this trip, but those are almost backwaters. I will have stayed in Rome, Venice, Montepulciano (about as close to an authentic slice of the 14th century as you can get) and Pompeii by the very least when this trip is over, and seen Elba, Florence, Naples, Herculaneum, Siena, Chuisi (our train station is in an ancient Etruscan town. Damn!) its unreal.
I wish school didnt start so soon after I get back. I have to do so much as soon as I get home. So many people to see, so little time. Oh well.
Im going to burn this to a CD today, and if I have time after emailing everyone, Im going to see if the net cafÈ guy will let me upload this journal to Jux, and maybe some photos with it. I doubt he will, so writing this section may be moot. I may not even get the guy who speaks English tomorrow and thus have to wait until later. Cant hurt to try, though, right? Until tomorrow, I remain, faithfully yours, my dear readers.
Oh, I should mention theres a big birthday party for Travis and Kalib up at club foto (Mary and Rebeccas apartment) tonight, but Im not going. Im extremely tired, and I have socks in the wash. My eyes are about to close as I write this to you. Seriously. Early morning. Oh well, just thought Id toss that in. Travis went in costume, and I snapped some pictures of it. We found random wigs and clothing in our apartment, along with strange stuff like an ungodly number of brushes, old wine, a bunch of dolls this place is strange and scary. Too much for words, and I doubt anyone wants to read a huge description of my apartment. Lets just say I found a closed and hidden box containing a face made out of cork, a disposable razor, a light bulb, some string cutting device, Kleenex, two D batteries, and about 30 other random and strange things. Everything we find in the unlocked areas makes me really wonder whats in those locked drawers and cabinets. Id probably rather not know.
Sorry for that little interlude. Grab a gelato and try to forget about it. Ciao ciao.
10:27am (EST), July 16th, 2003
Dining room
Montepulciano, Italy
I just finished writing two post cards. One to Samantha, and one to Vivian. I have three cards, but I only got two stamps. Maybe Ill pick up a third tonight and send it to my parents. Theyre special, though, since theyre the only ones Ive called since being here. Called and actually been able to talk to, anyway.
Theres a large group of English (as in British) people in town. They should be gone soon.
I emailed my parents and Vivian again today. I had replies from both of them as well, and both of the replies mentioned movies that I dont get to see yet! Apparently, Pirates of the Caribbean is quite good. Damnit. I miss seeing movies all the damn time. Oh well.
My bus to the train station leaves at 6:25 in the morning. Thats painful. I should probably catch a nap now; instead, I wrote post cards, and Im writing this! I also have to room with Dr. Teeter. Thats not going to be overly fun.
Other than classes, not much has happened today. I didnt get to use a CD-ROM, because I was in a hurry, but I imagine I can. I still have 20 minutes or more left on my card for the net cafÈ, though, and I can always put more on. Dinner at Ginos tonight. Hopefully it will be good. Ginos is faster than Albertos, and the food is at least as good, but its not fair that we had to leave Albertos right as I figured out we could get free soft drinks. Oh well.
My time here is nearing the halfway point. Next Monday is mid-terms. It feels like Ive been here forever, but it also feels like I have forever in front of me. I guess thats fitting for the middle of a trip, no? Missing people again. Im quite comfortable here in Montepulciano now, but I cant wait to see Georgia again. I wish there was some way of doing it without leaving Italia, because I love it here too. The call of Europa is stronger than I ever would have thought, even once youre here awhile. Now I just have to see Britain and Japan, which isnt European but you get my point.
Samantha still hasnt emailed me back, but I wrote her a post card anyway. I mentioned that IN the post card, actually. Shed best be glad I miss her Im just upset that she didnt write me. Every email I send from this place is precious!
Hell, Lauren wrote me, and I wrote her back, and I had been in such a hurry I hadnt had time to email her yet.
I wonder what Spelling the Vacuum is up to right now. Elliott was supposed to email me his comments on my book, but he hasnt done that yet either. I wonder what this trend of people forgetting me is. I shall bitch them out when I get home. You must respect your friends when they leave the country, you silly, silly people!
3:55pm (EST), July 19th, 2003
Dining room
Montepulciano, Italy
I just got back from Rome a few hours ago. Thats a lot to talk about, so Im going to skip around a bit first, kay?
Tonight was the best meal Ive had since coming here, and it was free. Wonderful pasta, free Coke, wonderful turkey the watermelon wasnt so hot as a desert, but Im willing to let it slide. The girls can go crazy over Ginos all they want, I much prefer Albertos.
Im alone in my apartment tonight, as my three roommates are in Florence for the weekend and wont be back until sometime tomorrow. It feels good to be alone with my thoughts again, for at least a little while. I can take my time writing this, I can turn my music up a bit glorious.
Its so beautiful in this town at dusk. I think Im going to have to come back here and write a book. Maybe after I make my first million Ill rent an apartment here one summer and just write. I need to take a picture of the sunset as it descends below the hills of Tuscany on my way home from dinner. No words can ever describe it. I dont think theres a place like this anywhere else on earth.
Now then, on to Rome, I suppose. We had to get up early, and the trip down there was tiring. The last time I was in Rome, I wasnt too impressed, as you can recall. Thats because all I really saw was a museum and modern Rome. This time, I was in plenty of museums, but I got to see old Rome too. I still dont like modern Rome too much, by the way. The first day, Thursday, that we were there was tiring. Teeter time, and we were carrying all of our stuff on our backs. We got to see some great art in the Museums, but for me the treat came at the end of the day when we got to see the Theatre of Marcellus and the Forum Bovarium. Thats what I wanted to see. More of it would come the next day.
As I may or may not have said, I dont feel like reading back through all of that looking for it, I had to room with Dr. Teeter. It wasnt that bad, really. The Villa Bossi, where we stayed, was nice, if obviously not a full-fledged hotel. The showers and bathrooms were at the end of the hall, and while the rooms had a sink and a desk, it was basically just beds tossed on the ground. But it had a fan, and that alone made me love it. On the way in I noticed that our hotel had a LIBRARY, complete with pay-on-honor basis Internet access. Once we came back to the place after dinner, though, I was beyond caring. A day of travel, a day of extremely hot Rome, all on Teeter time, was enough for me. I went to the room, grabbed a quick shower to wash all the dust off of me, pointed the fan straight at me, and then passed out. Not before checking my camera, though. I had taken somewhere around 140 pictures that day, smashing the Florence record. I was seriously concerned that I would not only have to break out the reserve 16mb card on this trip, but that I would have to delete some of the (admittedly blurry because I had to use a slow shutter speed, handheld, with no flash) pictures from the museums in addition to that, just to fit everything I wanted to take a picture of on there. It turned out that I would take slightly fewer pictures on each of the following days, especially today, so I didnt quite fill the 256mb card. I still took quite a few pictures this weekend though; well over 200.
The next day, after waking up early and grabbing a quick breakfast, was filled with the sort of things I wanted to see, desperately. The Forum. The Colosseum (Yep, I got to go inside). The Capitoline. The Palantine. Trajans Column, complete with its idiotic statue of St. Peter on top. Walking through the ruins of the Forum was an experience I want to have again. I could spend forever just wandering about down there. It was the place I could most feel that yes, I was in Rome. Here it all was. Theres the temple of Castor and Pollux, there are the ruins of everything. Just everything. But since it was such a long day, and hot, even though it was cooler than the night before, I was completely dead when I got back to the hotel. I wasnt really tired, so much as fatigued and sick of the people around me. I decided not to go to dinner with either of the two groups heading out into the city, since I wasnt really hungry either. Instead, I availed myself of the internet service, read a half million emails, mostly from Vivian, and took my good sweet time replying. Samantha wrote me back, so I can stop complaining about that! Actually, I checked my email today as well, and she replied to my reply, so that girl is doing good ;) I was in the library for about half an hour, which should have cost me 1.60, even though it was so slow a connection I felt like paying only .80 for 15 minutes. It didnt matter anyway, since the guy wasnt at the desk and I didnt feel like buzzing for him. I went back up to the room, grabbed a shower, played with the clock radio for awhile, and then just gave up and slept. Wasnt much left to do.
The next morning dawned bright and early, and we were going to have to carry all of our stuff again, so I packed up. Since I only brought two white shirts to Italy, and I sure as hell wasnt going to wear black around Rome, I had to re-wear a shirt. It wasnt the most pleasant experience, but it was better than the alternative. After we gathered together and checked out, I tried to pay the guy for the internet service I had used the night before, but when I did he waved me off and said it was free, despite the signs everywhere with price listings oh well, I wasnt arguing. When I say the next morning, by the way, I mean today, although it seems so long ago that it doesnt feel like today anymore. We saw the Pantheon, the cat sanctuary the keep among the ruins of four temples, and of course, the notorious fountain that I cant spell so Im not going to try. At any rate, the Pantheon was astounding. I actually had Rebecca take my picture in front of it. We ate in the McDonalds right across the piazza from it. I kept my receipt, because it says McDonalds at Pantheon. Its astounding. Modern America and Ancient Rome, right next to each other in the capitol of Italy. How fitting.
Not much to talk about after that, really. I came back here, dropped everything off at the apartment, tried to go to the supermarket (too crowded), checked and sent email again, and then went to dinner. I need to buy more time though. I have about a minute left on my internet card.
Speaking of buying time, I need another phone card. Moms birthday is coming up. I think I might be in Naples when it actually hits, though. Im going to email her just in case, but Ill still try to call her on her birthday.
One of the emails today was about them having lots of problems with the internet access at home. Thats hilarious. Oh well, tough. Whatever they destroy, theyre paying for its definitely not the router thats giving them problems, no matter what anyone says. Luckily they cant get in there to mess with the settings. Even knocking the power out wont do that. Its sorta fun to watch the computer illiterate play from thousands of miles away. And, they might read this, so I will say: YES, none of you have ANY idea how to use a computer. AT ALL.
There, that was fun. J
According to emails from both, Travis and Vivian have become friends while Im gone. Theyve hung out together a few times, and chat online, and what not. Thats great, and you know why? It means we wont have to go through another phase like what happened when Sara came along, which I doubted anyway, given the differences in the circumstances on all sides. Samantha thinks Vivian kicks ass too, so my new(ish) girlfriend meshes will with all of my important friends, and all of my important friends mesh well with one another. Thats a pretty severe case of lucking out on my part.
I cant wait to get home, I never want to leave, and a ton of other things, all rolled up into one. Tuscany who would have thought?
Actually, probably everyone.
8:13am (EST), July 20th, 2003
Dining room
Montepulciano, Italy
Listening to Sublime. Thank god Steve brought all of his CDs. I knew I would regret it if I didnt rip those before I came, and what do you know, I do! Anyway, lets move on to the business of the day, of which there is none.
Thats right, as of yet, there is nothing of interest going on! Today is the first truly relaxing day Ive had since Ive been here. Nothing to do at all until dinner, although Ill probably decide to check my email again and pick up a new phone card to try calling Vivian tonight. Hopefully itll work this time. Otherwise, Ill be quite annoyed and upset and junk.
What have I been doing today? Nothing much. Got up, showered and shaved, walked up the hill to breakfast. The only people there were Trudy, Teeter and Tony. Not that bad really. Had a nice discussion about Pompeii, and there was plenty of free orange juice and strawberry yogurt. Once that was over, I started walking to the piazza to see about a phone card, but abruptly changed my mind about that when I noticed the internet place was open on Sundays, did an about face, and got more time added to my card, since I was down to one minute. I paid 12 euros for 5 hours of time, discovered he had put 8 hours on the card (plus 1 bonus hour), and was delighted. I shall try the CD thing soon. Anyway, seeing as I now had much more time than anticipated, and I had nothing else to actually do, I spent an entire half hour there, writing a long email to Vivian, part of which I then copied as a new Juxtapositions feature about college girls! Do the people here know that theyve been mined as a source of mirth? Nope. Theyre good people, really, its just that some of their attitudes reflect what Im glad I suppressed about myself. Steve and I were joking about the fact a few days ago that the two virgin guys here were also the two guys with girlfriends, which probably says a lot about the sort of guys who managed to keep girlfriends. You know, even though Ive only been with Vivian for about two months and all. I dont suspect its heading for as quick an end as this weird Kalib/Andrea situation must be once this is over.
Well, once I was done there, I came back here, fixed myself a peanut butter sandwich, and Ive been reading Harry Potter ever since. This is my first brief break, because as soon as I finish this entry, Im going to go back to reading Harry Potter! Its 2:24 here. Dinner is at 7:30, and the very earliest I plan on leaving this apartment to head up the hill is 6:00, most likely closer to 6:30, so I have plenty of time to read and relax. Considering I leave for Naples Wednesday, after a midterm, and that I have classes tomorrow and a field trip to Siena on Tuesday, my week is mighty full after this. Ill do whatever preparation I actually need for Teeters midterm tomorrow after classes, I think Ill just re-read that Polybius passage to make sure I know it by heart and leave it at that, and then Im pretty much free for the week. Bills class is the biggest breeze ever. Im pretty much done with the books Im required to make already. Were learning a new, easy technique tomorrow. Gasp. Alas no.
I think Ill call mom and dad again tonight, too. Its been a week. With all the extra emailing Ive been doing, it doesnt feel like that long. Hopefully the same applies to them, too. I dont want to be neglecting anyone. Hell, Ive even been talking to Erin quite a bit lately.
Ill leave you to think of the fact that Jux has gotten along quite well without me. Im glad. Kenny was certainly the man for the job, even if he did accidentally delete one of Sams guest features. I cant wait to see those. I wonder if the guest feature poster part of our thing even works. Well certainly see!
2:50pm (EST), July 21, 2003
Kitchen
Montepulciano, Italy
I was right! Our guest feature poster doesnt even work! But we have three features by Samantha on Jux now!
Anyway, Ive been doing some pretty wild mood swings since my last post. Im downright chipper now, though I suspect I wont be for long but let me post something I wrote last night first, shall we? It was by hand, and Ill do it in italics for fun effect!
3:57pm, EST, July 20, 2003
I am now officially in the worst mood Ive been in since I got here. So bad I dont want to boot up my laptop. Good thing no one is here.
Bought a new phone card. Got through to mom. Tried getting through to Vivian six times. Why is she the one person I cant reach in this god-filled country? I guess Ill try tomorrow, which is also when Ill type this up and add more.
GAH!!!
Then I read some Harry Potter and got in a semi-decent moon again. That ended by this morning, when I tried calling her again, and failed. Sigh.
Problems mounted at lunch when I went to use the internet, and had to spend 15 minutes while the guy lazily fixed my card. I got my full five hours back, at least, for my trouble cough cough. I guess I got something free out of it, but I was honest when he asked me how much time I had bought. Oh well. It worked again, I got plenty of letters from Vivian explaining at least part of the phone thing, which made me feel better but I was still pissed at internet guy. At least I can email Vivian, so its not that bad.
Still that Tuscan sunset
Anywho, after getting more Coke from the supermarket, more Harry Potter, and a lovely dinner with Erin (who is RACHEL INCARNATE), Casey, Casey, Kelly, and Travis, and then the walk home with yet more people, Im in a jolly fine mood again! Plus Sams features went up, which is great, and I checked my mail again before dinner. No one had mailed me yet, but I sent off some emails just acause to Vivian. Goshen Im glad I met her.
Samanthas talked about work twice in her letters. Its kinda funny. Libbys still being Libby. I miss the library too, actually itll be fun to be among all of those people again. I imagine my trip will be a major topic of conversation for at least a little while.
I have to leave for Siena at 6:00am in the morning. The next day, I leave for Naples at 2:45, and Ill be there until Saturday. All of this means Ill probably only be able to email everyone one more time Wednesday lunch. Right before I head to Naples. Unless, by some astounding measure, the place has an internet connection again. Im taking entertainment this time though, seriously god.
And with that, Im pretty much done! Im sure this journal will hear from me at least one more time before I leave. I hope I get to talk to mom on her birthday
3:14pm (EST), July 22, 2003
Dining room
Montepulciano, Italy
Well, today was interesting. Where to begin?
Getting up EARLY this morning was a pain in the ass. Since two of my roommates also had 6:25 buses to catch, we were all trying to wake up as late as possible and still get there on time. I ended up not being able to catch a shower. This sucks. Such a thing is not happening to me tomorrow, I say. Later in the day we found out there was an 8:00am bus to Siena, which Bill was completely unaware of, which made us a bit unhappy.
Theres not a whole lot to say about Siena, really. It looks a lot like Montepulciano, honestly, except not nearly as attractive. There was one REALLY impressive church, and another REALLY unimpressive church that contained the mummified head and assorted bones of St. Catherine. That was worth the trip alone, I think. Its not often you get to stare into the actual face of a saint. Who says Catholics arent morbid? Not me! The only other really neat thing that happened in Siena was that I climbed the tower from hell. It was over 300 feet tall, and contained somewhere around 550 stairs. But these werent normal stairs. At some points the staircase, with two way traffic at random, was only as wide as my shoulders, and the ceiling was about five feet tall, and the stairs with slick stone stairs with grooves from years of feet and then at random points they were rickety wooden stairs or ladders! Im proud to say I made it all the way to the top, although that climb will make anyone both afraid of heights and claustrophobic. You get a beautiful view of the city in all directions though, as you contemplate your own rather imminent death. I think it gave me a neat idea for The Eternal City, honestly.
Well, once I got back, things got a bit more depressing. I checked my email pronto, and I had something nice from Samantha but nothing from Vivian. I got on AIM, found Travis, and told him to do his best to make sure Vivian emailed me before 6:00am their time. I really, really hope she does. I dont want to go without from hearing from her until Saturday if then, even, since I dont know if well get back before the place closes. I certainly hope we do. Maybe there will be a minor miracle and an Internet Train or something similar will exist in Pompeii. Not fucking likely, though. At least Ill get to call mom on her birthday though, since I have a phone card, assuming I can find a pay phone while there. This trip wasnt supposed to be this week originally, and it kinda shows.
Well, Im going to upload this travel journal tomorrow at lunch. Jux readers should note that there are italics and such in this that arent going to come through when I copy-paste it. Dont worry: a proper html version will be posted when I get home and have time for such things. And not a single spelling error or anything like that is going to be corrected in this thing. This is a purely stream of conscious thing, that Ill edit when I get home.
Finished Harry Potter today. Good book. Sad book. I cant wait for the next one
Well, Im going to burn a CD right quick, and this on it, and then I have a date with a peanut butter sandwich and Polybius. Roman History midterm tomorrow and all, you know. Ciao. Look forward to future installments ;)
